The 6 runs express past 125th and then slows into something different. By the time it surfaces at the last stop the city has changed register entirely — wider streets, lower buildings, the sky actually visible. I came up the stairs into air that already meant business, warm and dense, the concrete already giving back what it had been saving since yesterday.
I wore the slate trousers because going somewhere I didn't want to overthink getting dressed for.
Below 138th the blocks have the quality I recognize from Antwerp's old port — the feeling of a neighborhood in the middle of its own argument about what it's becoming. The industrial bones are still winning. Warehouses with new glazing on the ground floor and rust on everything above. A loading dock with a mural that looked like it had been painted fast and meant to last.
The lunch counter was on a block with no foot traffic. The chalkboard was in Spanish and I could read enough of it to order without pointing. The stools were vinyl, cracked at the seam, the counter laminate worn white at the edge where hands had rested for years. A radio behind the grill, corrido under the sound of oil. Rice, beans, a stew that arrived in a bowl wider than the plate it came on — long-cooked pork, something acidic underneath, oregano or close to it. I ate slowly. The woman at the grill didn't register me as anything in particular, which was the right arrangement.
Port Morris in the afternoon. The rain had made up its mind somewhere around the third warehouse block, so I pulled the sleeves down and walked slower. One of the converted studios had its door propped open — I could see inside, a long room, bare bulb, a woman stretching a canvas on the floor with her back to me. She didn't look up. The room smelled like drywall compound over something older, machine oil or metal particulate, the weight of what the space used to do. That smell doesn't leave a building. You paint over it, pour new floors over it. It stays in the walls.
I swapped the shirt for something cleaner at the apartment and called it an evening.
A pigeon was sheltering under the awning of a closed loading bay. It didn't move when I walked past.